Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world and is also the largest in South America. The lake lies at an elevation of 12,507’ above sea level and divides Peru & Bolivia. There are many islands in the lake including the very unique Uros Floating Islands. We visited the floating islands and learned that the origin of the islands and its residents dates back to 1500 BC. Currently there are around 1200 people living on 87 floating islands. The islands are constructed from the dense roots of tortora reeds, which grow in the lake.
The roots of the plants are interwoven to form a layer called Khili (about one to two meters thick) that support the islands. They are anchored with ropes attached to sticks driven into the bottom of the lake. The reeds at the bottoms of the islands rot away fairly quickly, so new reeds are added to the top about every three months and the life of an island lasts about 30 years. Structures are also built on the islands. Most of the structures are made of the same reeds but others are constructed of wood and corrugated metal. The islands are in the shallow part of the lake approximately 5km from the shore of Puno.
After a brief visit to the floating islands, we went to Amantani Island approximately 3hr by boat away from the shore of Puno. There is no formal lodging on the island so we arranged for an overnight homestay with a resident of the island named Hoia and shared the experience with fellow travelers Linda & Manual from Switzerland. It was interesting to be in a place where more than 4000 people live without the use of cars or machinery of any kind. Most people on the island live in adobe mud huts and survive by growing and exporting agricultural products or making textiles. While some now have solar panels, many still rely only on candlelight for electricity. Our host was good at multitasking by continuously spinning alpaca yarn while walking and we learned of the Queucha Code: “Ama Sua. Ama Quella. Ama LLulla.” which means: “Don’t Lie. Don’t Steal. Don’t be Lazy.” We all enjoyed a fabulous lunch of quinoa/veggie soup and fried queso followed by fresh mint tea. After lunch we walked through the village to the town square and then climbed to the temple at the top of the mountain at the summit of Pachatata Peak to enjoy the sunset then completed our day by sharing a pisco sour at a small pub in the square.
The next morning Hoia prepared a fabulous breakfast then we said adios and boarded a boat en route to Taquile Island on the way back to Puno. At Taquile Island, we walked along a stone path overlooking the coast that ascended to the top of the island where the main village was located. We had lunch in the village then descended back to the dock where we boarded the boat for a 3 hour journey back to the shore of Puno.
While our visit to Lago Titikaka was short, it’s been a highlight of the trip so far. The villages on the islands were picturesque and the lifestyle of the islanders was so different than most other places we’ve visited.