Peru is a vast country full of beauty, rich cultures, and pride. I continue to be amazed by the variety of landscapes and lifestyles of the people from this country. The cultures of the different regions are about as diverse as the landscapes. We’re only on our 3rd week in Peru and we’ve already visited the lush highlands around Machu Picchu, the urban jungle of Lima, and the fertile lowlands of the Amazon. Now we’re in Arequipa which is referred to as “the White City” and is surrounded by barren desert and enormous snow capped volcanos. The architecture of Arequipa is much different than any we’ve seen so far in Peru. Many buildings in the city have a Spanish Colonial style and many are constructed of the white limestone that is mined in the area but it’s nickname “the White City” has nothing to do with the color of the buildings and everything to do with the color of it’s people. We learned that Arequipa was the first European settlement in all of South America. Turns out that when Europeans first arrived on the coasts of South America, the heat of the coastal regions near the equator was unbearable so they flocked to the highlands and settled there. Much like the colonization of North America, the early settlers in South America started building settlements where they would bring their religion and wealth and, also much like North America, some of the natives accepted the new way of life while others still hold strong resentments.

Brenda and I joined a free walking tour on our first day in Arequipa and learned a bit about the origin of it’s people and the blending of religions. The native indians from the region worshipped their earthly gods of the sun, earth, sky, and water while the Europeans brought their beliefs in the teachings of Jesus Christ. There are several impressive cathedrals in Arequipa with exquisite architectural details that show symbolism of a mutual respect and blending of religions. For example, where gargoyles are present on many European cathedrals to ward off the evil spirits, the gargoyles are monkeys with mean faces on the cathedrals in Arequipa. While there are statues of Christ on the cross, Jesus is depicted as a Peruvian and other saints have brown skin. In the carvings on the exterior of the cathedrals, there are images of Christ and angels alongside images of the sun, moon, and stars. It is definitely something that we hadn’t seen or noticed in our travels before.

Arequipa is also a modern city and has several contemporary residences and office buildings and we didn’t feel as out of place as we have in other cities given its strong European influence.  We even came upon a place that seemed as though it were created just for Brenda & I – a cafe with a rooftop deck offering only varieties of Chocolate, Queso Helado, and Peruvian Craft Beers! Of course we had to sample and we highly recommend the milk chocolate, the queso ice cream, the Purple Corn IPA, and the Quinoa Kolsch!!

Colca Canyon

While we’ve been active everyday walking around in cities and even in the Amazon jungle, 2 weeks had passed since I’d done my “Extreme PT” and Brenda & I were both eager for a bit of exercise and a few days away from the city so we arranged for transportation to Colca Canyon – about a 5 hour bus ride away from Arequipa. Colca Canyon is one of the deepest canyons in the world with a depth of 3270 meters (10,725’) at its deepest point (more than twice the depth of the Grand Canyon).  I knew the 20km trail would be a challenge for me while still recovering from my broken heel but I also know that it’ll only get better with use so we committed to the trek.

On the first day, we descended approximately 3600’ from the rim to the bottom of the gorge, crossed the river, and climbed about 1000’ up the other side of the canyon where we stopped to have lunch in small canyon village accessible only by foot. After lunch we trekked about another 4km along fairly level ground then descended again to the Oasis of Sangalle where we stayed for the night. We’d admired the oasis from above all day and it was awesome to arrive there and see it up close just before dark. After a hearty pasta dinner to prepare for the next day’s ascent, we enjoyed a much needed rest in a primitive bungalow.

We got an early start on the ascent the next morning to avoid the heat of the day. While the 3600’ ascent was steep and physically demanding, it was easier on my foot than the descent had been the day before. Brenda did extremely well for the first half of the ascent but was pretty challenged by the last half – partly due to the slope of the ascent but also due to a lack of caloric reserves and hydration. We’d accidentally left our only water behind at the bungalow and had completed more than half the ascent without consuming a drop. Fortunately, some very kind folks in another group of hikers offered us enough to keep us going!

Reaching the summit at the rim of the canyon became a monumental accomplishment for both of us. I liken it to the feeling we both had when we completed our first marathon. We were exhausted and in pain but yet we felt an amazing sense of revived energy and achievement and were grateful for having taken on the challenge and experiencing such a beautiful place.

Volcan Misti

Arequipa is surrounded by 10 volcanoes including Volcan Misti which is still active and rises 5821 meters (19,097′) above sea level.  The city lies at an elevation of 2,328 meters (7,638 ft) above sea level and the summits of all 10 volcanos around it exceed 18,000′.  I enjoy climbing peaks and have summited 49 of the 54 fourteeners in Colorado and have also summited the Conception Volcano of Ometepe Island in Nicaragua so I’d hoped to climb a few more volcanoes during this trip.

Volcan Misti was one that was on my wish list to climb but with nearly 12,000′ of elevation gain, unfortunately, I had to consider my limited physical abilities at the moment and passed on the opportunity.  When we were on our walking tour around Arequipa, our tour guide spoke of a few crazy Peruvians who’ve made an annual event out of running up Misti – they call it the “Misti Marathon” and it’s a 42km (26 mile) race that begins at Plaza de Armas in the center of Arequipa and ascends 11,459’ to the summit.  I understand the record is 4:05 minutes. While I’m pretty sure I’d never keep up with the Quechuas, I’m already thinking that it may be a fun challenge!  Pat? Tim? Eric? Thoughts???? Maybe we could make a double header out of the Salkantay Marathon and the Misti Marathon in the same week! Bet none of the Peruvians have done that yet 🙂