Monthly Archives: May 2016

The “not-so-fun” side of long-term travel part #1 (because I’m sure there will be future stories)

20151231_075037While traveling is awesome and it’s exciting to experience new things, not everything’s been fun and games. It’s been less than 6 months since we began our journey and we’ve already had a few mishaps. My paragliding accident happened only 3 weeks into the trip where I learned trust and patience in receiving major healthcare in a foreign country. The hospital had broken X-ray equipment, I waited 2 weeks for a surgery that would have likely been done instantly in the US, and language barriers made it difficult to understand the extent of my injuries and what was being done to fix them.

After nearly 3 months of recovery back in Colorado, Brenda & I went back on the road. We’re both pretty seasoned travelers, but I made a couple of rookie mistakes right off the bat. When we arrived in Lima, I used my debit card to acquire peso’s from an ATM and accidentally left my card in the machine. Big OOPS! That same night, in the process of notifying my bank about the lost card, I left my cell phone in the lobby of a hotel which was never to be found.

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In the Amazon Jungle near Iquitos, Brenda & I were peed on by monkeys and many of the few clothing items we had were permanently stained from being laundered in brown water. In Puno, I got some sort of flu bug and spent a miserable night in a hostel with a high fever and chills – thankfully, a strong dose of antibiotics (acquired without a Dr. prescription) took care of it quickly. In Chile, we rented a car which was great outside of the city but, in Santiago, we spent more than 4 hours in heavy traffic one evening with added navigational challenges due to our dependency on technology which had lost it’s charge.

Speaking of technology, neither of us have roving phone service or wifi since we’re trying to travel frugally so we’re reliant on the free wifi connections from places we’re staying which have been slow and unreliable. With frugality in mind, we’ve stayed in hostels and shared bunk rooms with as many as 8 other people. I hate to admit it but, we’re a bit older than the average hostel patrons who seem to go out around 10 and return around 2 so we’ve had some restless nights and it’s also challenging to unpack and repack your stuff when the only horizontal surface available is the floor.

We’ve been “accosted” by taxi drivers and street peddlers trying to sell services and stupid touristy items at “gringo” prices.  We’ve walked a mile with heavy backpacks on to catch a bus that was only a couple blocks away because we followed signage and directions we’d received and turned right instead of left only to find out that the signage and directions were for a different bus terminal than the bus we’d reserved, and, while we’re both prudent and acutely aware of our surroundings, Brenda had a necklace stolen right off her neck by a hooligan punk passing on a bicycle!

DSCN1272Most recently, we both acquired a pesky case of ringworm and have no idea how we got it. While we were able to get medication to treat it at a pharmacy without a prescription, whatever the cause, it’s a pain in the ass and it’s difficult to treat without the ability to launder our bedding and clothing daily.

While I’m grateful to be on this adventure and am definitely not ready for it to end, I couldn’t continue posting only the fun things without sharing a few of the “not so great” things about long term travel. Traveling this way is a huge learning experience. We’re becoming more experienced in adapting to ever-changing conditions and environments. We’re increasing our ability to work together and increasing our communication skills. Most of all, we’re making new friends and appreciating this awesome experience called life!

Rio de Janeiro & the Museum of Tomorrows

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Hang gliding from Pedra Bonita in 2010

On my first visit to Rio with my friend Ian in 2010, I saw the main attractions of Corcovado, Sugar Loaf, Copacabana, Impanema, the sunset from Arpoador, and the Sambadrome. It was also on that trip when I took my first hang glider flight with Konrad from Rio Hang Gliding http://www.riohanggliding.com which prompted me to take up paragliding! Rio is an incredibly beautiful city full of natural beauty and I was eager to explore it again with Brenda.

Of course we had to visit the main touristic things so, on our first day, we trekked up Corcovado to see the iconic statue of Christ the Reedemer. While most people opt for a bus or a train to the top, we prefer hiking so we took the steep jungle trail as a form of “naturopathic PT”.

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Trail to top of Corcovado
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Strange tree in Botanical Gardens

Sadly, the sky was overcast so we weren’t able to see the awesome city view but the statue was impressive, nonetheless, and it was actually kind of cool being up in the clouds! On day two we took a walk around the lagoon where the Olympic rowing events will be held and visited the botanic gardens where we saw one of the most impressive cactus gardens we’ve ever seen and a tree with some highly-unusual roots. Later that evening, the skies cleared so we took the cablecar to the summit of Sugar Loaf and enjoyed a breathtaking view of the city and coastline before watching the sunset and, ultimately, enjoying the endless sea of city lights. At the summit we shared a Brazilian craft brew that bore the name of “Colorado” but, sadly, it didn’t quite meet up to Colorado brew standards!

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Sunset from Sugarloaf

The forecast was for rain towards the end of our week so we tried to complete all of our planned outdoor activities before the rain. On our third day, we hiked to the summit of Two Brothers – the steep peaks rising from the end of Impanema. The trail to the summit began from the top of the Vidigal Favela and climbed sharply to the summit offering some truly incredible views of the coastline and surrounding areas including a portion of the Tijuca National Forest, Pedra da Gávea, Pedra Bonita, and an overview of the Rocina Favela – one of Rio’s largest favelas adjacent to Leblon (one of South America’s wealthiest neighborhoods).

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Rocina Favela as seen from the trail to the summit of Two Brothers
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Looking towards Two Brothers Peak & the Vidigal Favela from Impanema Beach

Nearly 11 million people live in favelas in Brazil and many of them are crime ridden and considered “inhabitable” by our standards without sanitation or electricity. The favelas are essentially shanty towns – each of which is “self-governed” by its residents. Some are run by drug lords and the police don’t even attempt to keep order as they fear for their own lives! Some of them, however, are considered safe and even a bit trendy like Santa Teresa and Vidigal. Both are considered “tourist-friendly” as they both have electricity and sanitation. Brenda and I entered the Vidigal favela on foot and took a collectivo to a point near the Two Brothers trailhead at the top. We found the residents to be friendly and helpful – one of which was a German guy who spoke English and helped us navigate our way through a maze to get to the trailhead. We were hoping to visit Santa Teresa as well but simply didn’t have time during this trip.

We spent a couple of days biking around Rio – one really nice day and another in pouring rain! On our last days in Rio, we took a Brazilian cooking class and visited the Museum of Tomorrows. Unlike most museums that display “artifacts”, this wasn’t really a museum at all – it was thought provoking and focused on ideas and concepts rather than objects. Much of the exhibition was digital and made us think about where we’ve come from and where we’re going from the origins of our planet to our probable future. One of my favorite exhibits was a maze of photos showing life around the world – customs, festivals, holiday celebrations, and, sadly, overconsumption and waste.

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The Museum of Tomorrows

The heart of the museum and its message was a Stonehenge-like cluster of 10-meter high TV screens that displayed data and images about where we are now – a period of evolution referred to as “the Anthropocene” – an era where humankind has become a geological force. The screens displayed troubling images of burning forests, dense traffic, pollution, contamination, over-population, mass production, overconsumption, melting glaciers, and piles of rubbish including the horrible “great pacific garbage patch” in the Pacific Ocean which reminded me of a sad and very intense documentary called “Plastic Paradise”: http://plasticparadisemovie.com
Brenda and I watched it a couple years ago and have vowed to minimize or eliminate our use of plastic and reduce our material consumption. We still have a ways to go but we’re starting to embrace minimalism and we’re certainly glad to have downsized and minimized – not only for the reduced environmental impact which is great but also for the freedom that a minimalist lifestyle provides.  http://www.theminimalists.com.

Cookin in Rio

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Simone (in orange) was a great teacher!

While I’d planned on learning some new things on this trip, I wasn’t quite sure what the curriculum would be. Turns out that I’ve been enjoying learning how to cook! We took our first cooking class in Lima, Peru where we learned to make Cerviche and Pisco Sours. The class was cool and it was fun learning how to make new things but I didn’t really learn that much about cooking.

While visiting Brazil, we discovered that Brazilian cuisine was really tasty so we signed up for another cooking class offered by Cook in Rio:  http://www.cookinrio.com but, this time, we learned a whole lot more about “cookin” than just how to make a dish.

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Caprese

First of all, the teacher (Simone) was super energetic and hilarious! She’s a native Brazilian full of carioca spirit who’d began her career in broadcasting and has lived in Germany, Cuba, the United States, and Brazil with about as many different husbands. When in Germany, she wasn’t able to work in broadcasting so she took a culinary class and discovered her real passion and vows that the main ingredient in any of her dishes is “love”.

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Fish Moqueca, Banana Forafa, and Brazilian Rice

During the 4-hour class, we made two types of Caipirinha’s (the national drink of Brazil) – one with passion fruit and the other with the traditional mix of lime, sugar, and rum. We also made a complete Brazilian meal including an appetizer of Caprese (a mix of sausage, onions, and hot pimiento peppers) and fried cassava sticks (a Brazilian cheese with flavor and texture similar to Wisconsin cheese curds). The main course was Brazilian Garlic Rice, Fish Moqueca, and Toasted Cassava Flour with Banana Forafa. Needless to say, we were quite full after eating the incredibly awesome food that we had prepared – the most unique and tasty was the Banana Forafa which was an unusual mix of a special kind of banana fried with onions, olive oil, and brown flour! Who would’ve thunk?

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Learning how to “flambe”

While Simone was entertaining and I’m glad to know how to cook a fine Brazilian meal, I most enjoyed learning some things about of the science behind cooking and nutrition. For example, I’d always thought “flambe” was just a fancy food service technique to impress people but I now know that it enhances and “seals in” the natural flavor of the ingredients and, now, I know how to do it without burning down the kitchen! I learned that you should always serve something spicy as an appetizer because the spice enhances the senses of taste and smell such that you have a greater appreciation for the food you’re eating and I also learned that you should serve something acidic to go with something that contains higher levels of fat as the acid counteracts the fat – I interpret that as: “I can eat all of the bacon and sausage I want to as long as I have an orange with it”!!!!

the Land of Foz

DSCN0962Brenda & I have found ourselves in the land of Foz for the past week.  It’s my second time here and I’d been looking forward to sharing the experience with Brenda.  “Foz” is the short nickname for the Brazilian city of Foz do Iguacu which, in Portuguese, means “Mouth of the Iguacu”.  Foz has a population of about 350k people and is home to not just one but two of the seven wonders of the world.  First of all, Foz is on the tri-country border of Paraguay, Agrentina, and Brazil and is adjacent to Iguazu Falls which is one of the seven natural wonders of the world and is, by far, one of the most spectacular places I’ve ever been.  Secondly, Brazil & Paraguay share Itaipu Binational – a hydro electric plant on the Parana River between the two countries which was named as one of the seven modern wonders of the world and is the world’s largest generator of renewable clean energy providing power to around 30 million Brazilian residents (15% of Brazil’s population) and 5 million Paraguayan residents (75% of Paraguay’s population).

Continue reading the Land of Foz

Above the Smog

DSCN0905On our last day in Chile, we decided to go hiking in the foothills East of Santiago where we joined a section of the Chilean Trail for a short distance and even took a bit of a “side trip” for about 1500’ of elevation gain along the Saltos de Apoquindo trail towards the summit of Aguas de Ramón Peak. While we’ve been walking nearly every day of our trip and my foot is getting better, I hadn’t done my “extreme PT” since our visit to Colca Canyon so I was a bit overdue for my visit to my natureopathic physical therapist! DSCN0908While the hike proved challenging and was certainly good therapy, we couldn’t help but notice how the city disappeared in it’s dense layer of smog as the day progressed. While Santiago is a beautiful city with a nice climate and a bunch of cool neighborhoods, that beauty is somewhat stifled by the smog as were our lungs – truly a sad situation!

“Chillaxin” in Chile

DSCN0778Pucon lies on the banks of Lago Villarrica and is in the heart of the lake region of Southern Chile. The quaint town (about the size of Breckenridge) is normally a vortex for backpackers and adventure tourism but our visit was a bit “out of season” having missed summer and too early for winter.

The most active volcano in all of South America is Villarrica which lies at the Eastern edge of Pucon on the Andes Range dividing Chile & Argentina. It erupted just a year ago in March of 2015 as it has many times before and as it continues to frequently.  Following is an excerpt from Wikipedia describing the March 2015 eruption and a link to a youtube video of it:

“Approximately at 03:01 AM on March 3, 2015, Villarrica erupted raising the alert to red up to 10 kilometers around. The eruption exceeded the height of the volcano, causing a loud explosion that woke the neighbors, and forcing the evacuation of 3,385 people in nearby communities.

“On February 7, 2015, Villarrica triggered a yellow alert at both Servicio Nacional de Geología y Minería and Onemi.  Minor explosions and low emissions of ashes were visible.  Ten days later, another eruption occurred. The National Service of Geology and Mining (Sernageomin) declared a yellow alert after volcanic and seismic activity increased again, while the National Emergency Office of the Interior Ministry (ONEMI) kept the yellow alert. The Southern Andean Volcano Observatory (OVDAS) indicated that a new imminent eruption would continue until 12:30 of March 19, 2015.  As of July 2015,the eruption is continuing.”  Link to video:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGbPpxyZvdk

DSCN0803We arrived at Pucon late on a stormy night in the midst of dark clouds, rain, and hail and were expecting a similar forecast for our entire visit but, much to our surprise and appreciation, the sky was clear the next morning and we enjoyed a spectacular glimpse of the smoking volcan! While it was “begging” to be climbed, unfortunately, the winds were too high (as was the cost of hiring the required guide) so I had to pass on yet another volcano climbing opportunity and enjoyed a week of “chillaxin”.

It turned out to be sunny almost all week although a bit cold and windy so we enjoyed some relaxing down time at Hostal French Andes.  Link to Hostel:  http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Hostel-French-Andes/Pucon/93204?dateFrom=2016-05-07&dateTo=2016-05-10&number_of_guests=2

DSCN0767Since Brenda loves France and I love South America, it seemed only appropriate that we’d stay at a hostal in the Andes owned and operated by some very friendly French folks who hit the mark with their hostal planning.

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The place was extremely comfortable with a choice of cozy “pods” or traditional rooms and an awesome common area perfect for cooking and socializing with other guests. Outdoors there was a fire pit which was nice on the cold evenings. DSCN0841We did get out and about for some easy hiking, some “four wheelin” in our rented Chevy Spark, and a dip in one of the many nearby termas which felt pretty good in the chilly air.

North & West of Pucon is the heart of wine country where some of the finest wines in all of South America are born. We were fortunate to have sampled some almost daily for the nominal cost of about $3.00/ bottle.

DSCN0821After a relaxing week, it was time to move on so we aimed the car back towards Santiago with a brief stopover at Salto del Laja, a beautiful waterfall near Chillan which proved to be a bit of a teaser for our forthcoming visit to Iguazu Falls.